I did not expect a river to be the thing that undid me.
I had spent the morning going back through cartographic references, half looking, half hoping, the way you search for something you are not sure exists. And then, on an anonymous chart attributed to Pedro Reinel, dated 1517, there it was. South of Malacca, a thin line of ink labelled Rio Formoso. Beautiful River.
It took me a moment to understand what I was looking at. This was not a modern map with modern names. This was drawn within a few decades of the Portuguese arrival in the Malay world, centuries before anyone in my family would set foot near that coastline. And yet the river it named, as best as historians can place it, is the river that would one day be called Batu Pahat. The river my great-grandfather arrived at. The river that gave its name to the town he settled in.
I sat with that for longer than I expected to. There is a particular vertigo in realising that a place you think of as intimately, privately yours, a place folded into family stories told at kitchen tables, had already been seen, named, and recorded by strangers five hundred years before your family ever arrived there. The Portuguese who charted that coastline were not thinking of the Hokkien migrants who would follow centuries later. They were thinking of trade winds and safe anchorages. And still, the name persisted, dormant in an archive, waiting for someone to come looking.
I keep returning to the word Formoso. Beautiful. Not strategic, not safe, not deep-water. Beautiful. Someone on that ship, or someone who spoke to someone on that ship, thought this particular stretch of water and mangrove was worth calling beautiful. I don't know if De Heng ever thought of the river that way when he arrived, exhausted, uncertain, four centuries later. But I like to think the water remembered before anyone in my family did.
This is not the first time research has felt like this, a fact arriving with more weight than facts usually carry. But it is the first time a single word on a five-hundred-year-old chart has made a whole chapter of the novel feel suddenly, physically true. Not invented. Not imagined. Found.
Anonymous Portuguese chart ("Pedro Reinel" map), 1517. The identification of Rio Formoso with the later Batu Pahat River follows Luís Filipe F. R. Thomaz, "The Image of the Archipelago in Portuguese Cartography of the 16th and Early 17th Centuries," Archipel 49 (1995): 79–124.
Part of the series: Ancestral Landscapes (2 of 2)